Moderator answers:

Open the Windows control panel and then go to programs. Look for Stitch Era and remove it.

I tried this software and did not like it one bit.

After you have removed SE, temporarily disable the PC’s firewall and reinstall your 4D program.

Moderator answers:

I did a search for crafts on yellowpages.com.eg and I got this:

Egypt Crafts Center
27 Yahia Ibrahim St., Zamalek, Cairo.
Tel: 02 7365123

Arts & Crafts Supplies
Universal Arts & Crafts
84 El Merghany St., Heliopolis, Cairo.
Tel: 02 4178261

you might wanna call them first to make sure they have what ur looking for

Also check out this link http://yellowpages.com.eg/BrowseCategory.aspx?CtgID=245&DrcID=1

Moderator answers:

Yup. Just about any machine that is over about $300 list price (which is higher than street price) will handle what you want to do. Below that, you run into the same problems you get with buying 500 drill bits for $4 at Harbor Fright. If you want to go new, I’d suggest you might want to look at something like the Janome S series, meant to be beat around in schools: http://janome.com/index.cfm/Machines/Specialty/Schoolmate_S-3015 http://janome.com/index.cfm/Machines/Specialty/Classmate_S-750
Head for a few real sewing machine stores and repair shops and tell them what you want, and then try some machines.

Until you mentioned patch a tear in a work shirt, I was going to suggest one of the old straight stitchers from the 30s to the 60s like the Singer 15, 99 or 66 — one of the machines that hasn’t yet developed a cult following. Around here, I can find them at yard sales and garage sales for $10-20 in working or close to working order. Mostly they need a good cleaning, new needles and some real sewing machine oil. In fact, I’ve pulled these machines off curbs the night before trash pickup, put in about an hour cleaning and oiling them, and given them away to local folks who need a basic machine. If you need another hobby, the nice folks at the yahoo group “wefixit” will be happy to initiate you into the wonderful world of tinkering with old sewing machines.

But because you mentioned a work shirt tear, I’m going to suggest that you really might want a machine with a darning stitch or a tricot stitch, better called a triple zigzag. Looks like the second sample here: http://teachsew.com/teachsew/stretchstiches.html Each of the zigs and zags are made of three short straight stitches. Put a scrap of fabric or tissue paper behind a tear and do a wide, closely set triple zigzag over the tear and it’s glued for good. You can do something similar with a plain
zigzag stitch, but it’s not quite as strong. Or you can do it with a straight stitch, though it’s a bit more
finicky and tends to be a little less neat (so we’re back to the old 15s, 99s. 66s ) Or you can do a more discreet mending job, often very hard to spot, but if you’re after quick and functional, my choice is probably going to be stitch that puppy back together with triple zigzag.

Or you might want to go off the deep end and get a walking foot needlefeed sewing machine… These are industrial or light industrial machines that are often used for making sails… Sailrite is a common brand of a portable one of these. But it’s sort of like buying a mortising machine when all you need to do is cut one mortise, and you already own the right size wood chisel. Here’s a comparison between an industrial needlefeed and the standard machine; home machines work like the second machine in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvYfzL2Wpm8
Notice that the needle in the needlefeed machine actually scoots the fabric backwards under the presser foot as it stitches, while the needle in the “regular” machine just goes up and down. Then there’s the walking foot machine, like: http://www.encyclopedia.com/video/X72ybCf1BYg-ultrafeed-sailrite-lsz1-walking-foot.aspx or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=276OAo5pITQ The advantage of a walking foot or needlefeed is that it keeps the layers of fabric all moving at the same rate — they can slip a little with the regular feed, particularly if you don’t know how to handle the fabric well. But when you need a needlefeed machine because you’re sewing something like velvet, they’re wonderful to have.

Most home sewing machines can have a gizmo usually called a “walking foot” put on them to sort of act like a needle feed — it’s actually just sort of an accessory or top layer feed, and I usually wind up mashing my fingers with one. Http://www.creativesewingsolutions.com/offline/walking_foot.htm Some home machine brands also have a pawl that works like the walking foot attachment. Pfaff is famous for it’s IDT feed, and there’s another one around called “accufeed” (I think on some Janomes.)
http://www.pfaff.com/ca/en/195.html The advantage of these is they aren’t finger mashers.

A beginning sewing project book I think you’d like is a book called “Hold it!” by Nancy Restuccia. Out of print, but commonly available in libraries, and also available on a CD in pdf format. Lots and lots of different bags for different kinds of things, written in English instead of patternspeak. Here’s a sample from the book so you can get a feel for it: http://www.mckennalinn.com/Tote.pdf And I’m also going to point you at this absolute genius diagram at the bottom, done by a pro designer, but I think easily figured out by anyone: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/zippered-pouch-1/

And then here’s my standard beginner sewing machine advice:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100102141629AAnEBrN

I suspect John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book would be right up your alley.